Make sure to Get Your Kicks 


by reading my latest piece for 


VIRAL Fashion:   

Linky LINK: 
http://viralfashion.com/viralfashion/mens-fashion/2013/03/19/get-your-kicks/

It's a Gift: Vintage Balenciaga at The MET Poster at Housing Works

Housing Works is having a special Vintage blowout on their auction site just in time for holiday shopping

 

and child this little lovely would look divine in our bedroom between the antique bar mirror and the needlepoint galleon 

Cha cha on over to Shophousingworks.com and put this poster from the Diana Vreeland currated 1973 Balenciaga exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute in your cart. For me. 

My Thoughts on Wang-ciaga

"Alexander Wang on Monday became the first designer of Asian descent to enter the highest ranks of Parisian high fashion when he was named creative director of the storied house of Balenciaga. "
                                                                                            -NY Times

Ok, first off I guess we'll ignore Kenzo,  a Parisian high fashion label founded in 1970 by a Japanese designer, Kenzo Takada, and recently rejuvenated when LVMH (who owns the line now) brought in Opening Ceremony prodigies, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, both of Asian descent to be the new creative directors. Oh Grey Lady. Fact check much?

But more importantly, how did this pairing come to be? Many industry insiders are grumbling that this a thinly veiled attempt to bring in a designer who can craft an 'It Bag' since most houses depend on handbags and shoes to make money. Balenciaga currently has none of those but behind Alexander Wang is the widely popular 'Rocco', 'Diego' bags and 'Anouk' and 'Amber' shoes featured all over street style blogs. Make no mistake PPR, which owns Balenciaga, is betting the house on proven accessory cash cow know how

           =

















Nicolas Ghesquière left Balenciaga on such a high note built on seasons of pushing silhouettes to new limits. Volume shouted with striking, architectural constructions of shape that seemed other-worldly. Funny, the same was said for Cristóbal Balenciaga when he freed women of classical silhouettes, crafting instead volumes for women to utilize like armor

(Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga, Fall 2012)

In stark contrast, Wang had popularized the street urchin chic of slouch and burnout stretch jersey. How will this translate to the house the cocoon coat built?

(Alexander Wang, Spring 2012)

Finally, and it needs to be said, especially with Wang entering "the highest ranks of Parisian high fashion", there's a quality issue giant white elephant in the room. Balenciaga under Ghesquière was made in France, Italy or throughout Europe. Wang's line is made in China (or possibly US sweatshops?) Will clients be willing to ante up for inferior products rushed to increase margins?

 (Above Wang Photo Credit: Flare.com)

Rumors

Nicolas Ghesquière being courted by LVMH? Or just having a social Thursday night dinner with Arnault and Dior chief Sidney Toledano? 

Alexander Wang the front runner for the opening at Balenciaga? Or just The New York Times' Cathy Horyn throwing her contender into fashion's favorite game of who's on first? (We at It Can't All Be Dior hope she's purely speculating)


Keep those rumors flying, fashion folks, and we will, of course, continue to report on the Balenciaga saga. 

WHAT?!

ELLE UK reports Nicolas Ghesquière is leaving Balenciaga! 

The fashion label and its creative director of 15 years reached a “joint decision to end their working relationship," effective Nov. 30.

Much turmoil has been going on with designers coming and going at storied houses lately, but never has a new blood ever molded their vision so seamlessly with that of the fashion house while still pushing them forward. Plus Ghesquière's designs resulted in both critical and commercial success. 

When the details start leaking this is gonna be interesting, child! 

He's Not Heavy, He's My Spring Collection

Why         So

Heavy???

(Clockwise from top: Haider Ackermann, Givenchy, Giambattista Valli, Balenciaga)

Perhaps after years of responding to negative body image pushing, designers have decided to pack on the pounds, cuzwhen you trim the fat from the Paris runways a significant trend is weighing in: Spring 2013 is gonna be heavy, man

(Layered, heavyweight satin and fur shoes at Céline. Summer calls, ladies!)

Do designers wanna wrap up and hide from a world riddled with political unrest and shaky economies? Do they figure the impending Mayan doomsday in December means none of this mess will make it to stores anyway?


Whatever the reason coats, layers and heavier fabrics abound for the first half of the year

(Rochas)

Jesus, is that velvet???? 

DON'T: Bal-ucci

Spotted this knock off bag with a glaring mistake

'tis an okay 'City Bag' knock off but it's best if you know your Balenciaga from your Gucci, counterfeiters.

Very Important for Fall: Not Paying a lot for New Clothes

Yes this is one of those blatant plugs for my job (hey I'm the press manager, gotta bump it!) but trust me it's worth reading this:


ALL NEW FALL merchandise at 50-75% off designer retail!

(NEW with Tags Haider Ackermann leather jacket, size 10, 

Retail $3,300, Roundabout Price $1,195)

In addition to some killer jackets, coats, shoes, dresses and boots, Roundabout Soho is stocked with showstopper vintage pieces like this bell sleeved mod mini from Balenciaga

(Vintage Balenciaga black wool mini, size medium, Roundabout Price $650)

Stop by today and say hi and snatch up the Fall goodies! It's gonna be one hell of a day! 

Roundabout Soho 

115s Mercer Street, 212-966-9166, http://roundaboutresale.tumblr.com/

While You Were Out...

Enjoying the preview Spring weather, Mr. Porter, the men's version of Net-A-Porter quietly opened for business to its "Founding Members" today

The store doesn't go "live" to the general public until Tuesday. I just took a stroll and the sneak peek is full of goodies

I fell in love with this Viktor and Rolf sweater when I saw it on the Spring 2011 Menswear runway

(Viktor and Rolf cotton crew neck sweater, $365 at Mr. Porter, http://www.mrporter.com/product/300665)

A tiny galaxy of stars covers this Paul Smith wonder

(Paul Smith cotton star print shirt, $320 at Mr. Porter, http://www.mrporter.com/product/300247)

Lanvin's got my number with a silk carnation boutonnière pin. Need!

(Lanvin silk flower buttonhole pin, $155 at Mr. Porter, http://www.mrporter.com/product/300383)

But what I love about Mr. Porter more than anything is all the editorial. It's overflowing with facts, tidbits and take away

Style guides including tips for a man's wardrobe and everyday dressing and timeless style icons like Marcello Mastroianni, Mick Jagger, Steve McQueen, Cristobal Balenciaga amongst others

(Marcello Mastroianni)

(Mick Jagger rockin' a very Mackie look)

(Cristobal Balenciaga)

Plus Esquire in its swinging 60's heyday like tips for being a Modern Man

There's even a whole style dictionary

(I didn't know this type of shoe is called a "Monk Strap")

And a pretty smart Q+A style advice from an assortment of fashionable fellas like Jefferson Hack, Pharrell, T Magazine Fashion Director, Bruce Pask, InStyle Editor, Ariel Foxman, etc.

With many more designers "coming soon" including Junya Watanabe, Band of Outsiders and Raf Simons, the future looks very bright indeed for Mr. Porter. I'm glad I could be here for the founding.

Designers Want You to Cocoon for Fall 2011

(the original)

It appears more than a few American designers attended  the "Balenciaga: Spanish Master" exhibition at the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute recently because there were numerous homages on this past week's runway to Cristobal's famous "cocoon coat"

(Marc Jacobs) 

The shape is simple: a coat made of a clean, fluid sphere that is like a shell for the body and provides a pedestal for the wearer's head

(Narciso Rodriguez)

Introduced in the 50's at the height of The New Look, Balenciaga went against the grain of over-emphasizing a woman's hour glass figure and instead opened the silhouette that allowed the woman movement and a certain air of chic

(Derek Lam's cropped shearling was a fresh interpretation for 2011)

(Lyn Devon's sweatshirt style felt new too)

(Thom Browne exaggerated the shape big time)

Will this trend carry over to Europe? Will retail embrace this harder to sell shape? Will everyone being doing the turtle this Fall? We shall see....

Work Blog: What’s a Ten Letter Word for Fabulous?

Roundabout blog post I did about this awesome Balenciaga motor bag... it sold within
the hour!

Child, my words got power!

Click the Balenciaga motor bag photo or the below link to go to the original article I wrote on Roundabout's blog:



http://roundaboutresale.tumblr.com/post/3312911056/whats-a-ten-letter-word-for-fabulous

Thanks for the Ad: Fall 2010 Fashion

It's one of my favorite times of the year again: September Fashion Magazine Time!

Now the editorial part long ago lost its allure to me after far too many disappointingly silly actresses against white backdrops modeling clothes that could be appealing if on a real model and not some dishwater tanned blonde girl from the latest interchangeable romantic comedy (this month's roster of Julia Roberts and Jennifer Aniston excel at proving my point!)

(Awkward pose with claw hands in a kimono)                                  (Random Barbara homage)  




So let's look at the ads! Cuz they still sell a fantasy land where you wear heels and and a full on Look to lounge on fire escapes and traipse around the city doing fabulously chic and indeterminate tasks

I've never been crazy about Natalia V (and that pose is sooooo Benny Ninja episode of America's Top Model), but DAMN if Karen and Christy aren't making a dramatic case for purchasing a vanity and a full skirt

Anja missed her train Friday afternoon, too wrapped up instead pondering why a raven is like a writing desk

Every August, the streets of New York City are filled with European tourists. Misleading ads like this are why every single one of those Euros is holding bags from mall brands like American Eagle, Express and Old Navy 

Speaking of Old Navy, kids,  Domenico and Stefano spent a lot of money to look real cheap. And that strategy only works for Dolly

I see Anna Wintour advised Ann Taylor to dump the models and sip from the dishwater blonde actress cup 

I was a fan of all the color blocking and 60's futurism Nicolas Ghesquiere used for Fall 2010, but this ad looks like you forced your sloppy, bratty teenage daughter to go to Sears for the annual family portrait

I LOVE Angela Lindvall!

Not a fan of Guess, but kinda loving this rockabilly meets Gina Lollobrigida imagery

And Moschino got the Colonial for Fall memo, although my version will have a whole lot less c**k rings involved. Yikes!