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My Thoughts on Wang-ciaga

"Alexander Wang on Monday became the first designer of Asian descent to enter the highest ranks of Parisian high fashion when he was named creative director of the storied house of Balenciaga. "
                                                                                            -NY Times

Ok, first off I guess we'll ignore Kenzo,  a Parisian high fashion label founded in 1970 by a Japanese designer, Kenzo Takada, and recently rejuvenated when LVMH (who owns the line now) brought in Opening Ceremony prodigies, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, both of Asian descent to be the new creative directors. Oh Grey Lady. Fact check much?

But more importantly, how did this pairing come to be? Many industry insiders are grumbling that this a thinly veiled attempt to bring in a designer who can craft an 'It Bag' since most houses depend on handbags and shoes to make money. Balenciaga currently has none of those but behind Alexander Wang is the widely popular 'Rocco', 'Diego' bags and 'Anouk' and 'Amber' shoes featured all over street style blogs. Make no mistake PPR, which owns Balenciaga, is betting the house on proven accessory cash cow know how

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Nicolas Ghesquière left Balenciaga on such a high note built on seasons of pushing silhouettes to new limits. Volume shouted with striking, architectural constructions of shape that seemed other-worldly. Funny, the same was said for Cristóbal Balenciaga when he freed women of classical silhouettes, crafting instead volumes for women to utilize like armor

(Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga, Fall 2012)

In stark contrast, Wang had popularized the street urchin chic of slouch and burnout stretch jersey. How will this translate to the house the cocoon coat built?

(Alexander Wang, Spring 2012)

Finally, and it needs to be said, especially with Wang entering "the highest ranks of Parisian high fashion", there's a quality issue giant white elephant in the room. Balenciaga under Ghesquière was made in France, Italy or throughout Europe. Wang's line is made in China (or possibly US sweatshops?) Will clients be willing to ante up for inferior products rushed to increase margins?

 (Above Wang Photo Credit: Flare.com)

Rumors

Nicolas Ghesquière being courted by LVMH? Or just having a social Thursday night dinner with Arnault and Dior chief Sidney Toledano? 

Alexander Wang the front runner for the opening at Balenciaga? Or just The New York Times' Cathy Horyn throwing her contender into fashion's favorite game of who's on first? (We at It Can't All Be Dior hope she's purely speculating)


Keep those rumors flying, fashion folks, and we will, of course, continue to report on the Balenciaga saga. 

WHAT?!

ELLE UK reports Nicolas Ghesquière is leaving Balenciaga! 

The fashion label and its creative director of 15 years reached a “joint decision to end their working relationship," effective Nov. 30.

Much turmoil has been going on with designers coming and going at storied houses lately, but never has a new blood ever molded their vision so seamlessly with that of the fashion house while still pushing them forward. Plus Ghesquière's designs resulted in both critical and commercial success. 

When the details start leaking this is gonna be interesting, child! 

Thanks for the Ad: Fall 2010 Fashion

It's one of my favorite times of the year again: September Fashion Magazine Time!

Now the editorial part long ago lost its allure to me after far too many disappointingly silly actresses against white backdrops modeling clothes that could be appealing if on a real model and not some dishwater tanned blonde girl from the latest interchangeable romantic comedy (this month's roster of Julia Roberts and Jennifer Aniston excel at proving my point!)

(Awkward pose with claw hands in a kimono)                                  (Random Barbara homage)  




So let's look at the ads! Cuz they still sell a fantasy land where you wear heels and and a full on Look to lounge on fire escapes and traipse around the city doing fabulously chic and indeterminate tasks

I've never been crazy about Natalia V (and that pose is sooooo Benny Ninja episode of America's Top Model), but DAMN if Karen and Christy aren't making a dramatic case for purchasing a vanity and a full skirt

Anja missed her train Friday afternoon, too wrapped up instead pondering why a raven is like a writing desk

Every August, the streets of New York City are filled with European tourists. Misleading ads like this are why every single one of those Euros is holding bags from mall brands like American Eagle, Express and Old Navy 

Speaking of Old Navy, kids,  Domenico and Stefano spent a lot of money to look real cheap. And that strategy only works for Dolly

I see Anna Wintour advised Ann Taylor to dump the models and sip from the dishwater blonde actress cup 

I was a fan of all the color blocking and 60's futurism Nicolas Ghesquiere used for Fall 2010, but this ad looks like you forced your sloppy, bratty teenage daughter to go to Sears for the annual family portrait

I LOVE Angela Lindvall!

Not a fan of Guess, but kinda loving this rockabilly meets Gina Lollobrigida imagery

And Moschino got the Colonial for Fall memo, although my version will have a whole lot less c**k rings involved. Yikes!