Comeback Week: Stefano Pilati Ermenegildo

Stefano Pilati made a huge comeback this week at his premier outing for Ermenegildo Zegna. Easily one of the most anticipated shows of milan men's fashion week (Pitti Uomo), Pilati did not disappoint with his typical stret and art scene flourish added to classic tailoring. This is what he masterfully accomplished at YSL before being unceremoniously dumped. Well Kerring's lost is the family Zegna's gain and this collaboration felt like that. A unification of signature label pieces filtered through the eye of a showman with tailor tendencies. 

Particularity of note were lightweight, neutral suits with layered long sleeve t-shirts rolled back at the cuffs

The suit was lent both an urban, laidback cool as well ad an indifference to a suit. I enjoy that aggressive approach Pilati always takes. His is never just a version of house tropes, but rather a rebuttal. How easy would it have been for him to just send out clean business suits in the typical Zegna mold. Easy, but boring. Rather he roughed them up with modern styling and laissez faire. "These details add personality, mine inevitably, and that of Zegna as the world knows it," Pilati told Women's Wear Daily the day of the show

The styling is indeed a reflection of Pilati's languid style: nothing's buttoned. Everything's tossed on with only your eye on the clock as you dart out the door. But it's your foresight to curate such a mix and match wardrobe in the first place and, well, your confidence that makes it work 

This irreverence is refreshing and feels like, in this age of running behind and distractions, the way to dress.



Plus, words aside, this is just a damn beautiful coat 

Welcome back, Stefano. The phoenix has risen once more (tip of my hat to any who get that reference) 

Hedi Back!

According to The New York Times, Hedi Slimane is officially back as head designer of YSL (the announcement will go live tomorrow supposedly), this time not just menswear, but the whole kit and caboodle

Are we excited about this? Hell yeah! Slimane's last design gig, as creative director for Dior Homme, was one of the sexiest, sleekest tenures in recent history. If even a morsel of that energy goes into Saint Laurent, we're guaranteed and refreshing shot of sleezy, smoke filled room sexiness in our Le Smokings of the future. 

Can't wait. 

End of the Road: Stefano Pilati at YSL

Good bye cutie

 I loved your reign at one of the most difficult houses to find an heir and found your magnetism palpable 

Plus I still want that damn sweatshirt!

Revolving Diors

Ok with John Galliano suspended and obviously not coming back, a successor is needed for Christian Dior. Someone who can handle both the Ready to Wear and the Haute Couture.


Here's some of my suggestions




1. Jean Paul Gauliter

A very obvious choice what with his enfant terrible reputation and his love for the dramatic. He could easily carry Dior forward and is available for another house with fashion history to take on since he left Hermes.





2. Olivier Theyskens

I know he's busy with Theory and all, but after a triumphant turn at Nina Ricci and an equally dramatic oust, critical darling, Theyskiens, would be up for the challenge, I'm sure.





3. Stefano Pilati

With rumors swirling once more that the Gucci group is on the verge on letting him  go from Yves Saint Laurent, he'd be open for a job and obviously familiar with the pressures of taking on such a revered French fashion house.




4. Giambattista Valli

This man knows how to dress a woman so she is the epitome of glamour and sophistication. He has a large celebrity following, which LVMH will need to pull Dior's reputation back (there will unfortunately  be a negative view connected until someone is able to wipe the slate clean).



With so many talents around, though, there isn't a shortage of designers to take over and perhaps we can look at this as a breath of fresh air and forward momentum for Dior.