Bill Gaytten's Last Hurrah at Dior

On Friday, Bill Gaytten showed his last interim head designer Dior collection leaving the door open for Raf Simons' Spring 2013 debut. But there were really beautiful and fun pieces in this serviceable swan song 

Crisp calico shirting feels so fresh. And love the piping trim.  

Full and tulle = Springtime cool. 

My co-worker is obsessed with backless dresses and this one would be primo if she were not my co-worker and instead some lady who doesn't have to work for a living. Those shoes are an unfortunate pairing. 

Farewell, Mr Gaytten. Enjoy your Galliano namesake label makeover (he's at the helm there now) and It Can't All Be Dior awaits Raf's contributions with breathe that is bated. 

Raf Simons Takes Dior!

"Bonjour, Dior!"

The who will replace Galliano tour de force has circulated mountains of rumors over the last year+, most we chose to ignore (Alexander Wang? Really?), but if the source is none other than The New York Times, you can bet it's pretty on point:


"On Wednesday, the Paris fashion house will announce that Raf Simons will take over immediately as artistic director, replacing John Galliano, who was fired from Dior last year after he made anti-Semitic remarks. His first collection is planned for July at the fall haute couture shows."




Wow! Go ahead Raf, your designs have never seemed the obvious heir of Monsieur Dior, but I look forward to what you'll wow us with and to the denouement of this absurd "Guess Who?" carousel of couture.






Original Article: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/12/fashion/simons-to-take-over-at-dior.html?_r=1

Dior Does Dovima

What does a house with a revered fashion reputation do after its new head designer's debut "Melancholy Mimes from Mars" couture collection was ripped to shreds? 

Revert to what you know works, and for Dior and Bill Gaytten, that fool proof course is "The New Look"

The nipped waist and dramatic skirt flourish shocked Carmel Snow (who famously coined the style's fashion forward moniker) post World War II and this level of sophistication is even more startling now when juxtaposed against so much bunk!

Personally each of these black and white wonders gives me visions of the one and only supermodel den mother and Avedon muse, Dovima

This retro refinement speaks to the well heeled and celebutante alike (that first dress should be top pick for Rooney Mara's Oscar look. You heard it hear first!) and the critics are already applauding. Go ahead Gaytten! Just furthering the mumblings that there's no need to rush replacing Galliano.

I Still Say Gaultier Should Get the Gig

In an interview in this week's New Yorker, jean Paul Gaultier tells how he once turned down John Galliano's open spot at Givenchy. Gaultier was holding out for Dior

“I thought Givenchy was very bourgeois,” [Gaultier] said. “I loved Saint Laurent, Dior, Cardin. Givenchy was not a dream of mine. So I told Mr. Arnault no, I was not dreaming of Givenchy.”

Perhaps LVMH could still see the opportunity to offer up Dior to this master couturier? He's been my front runner for awhile and is quite sharp at accessing the core spirit of a brand and turning it on its head with his wild touches (see: Hermes)

Sometimes It Can Be? Dior Fall 2011 Haute Couture

Be forewarned, the above photo is my favorite look (for the pure Kylie Minogue circa 2001-ness of it) from the Fall 2011 Haute Couture Dior show, the first without John Galliano. 

Former right hand man and now de facto designer, Bill Gaytten served up a soupcon of inspiration: sad harlequin clowns, neon Escher prints, cubism and teased hair and a heaping of celestial seasoning

(Yeah, Jourdan, I feel the same way)

One can give a pass for the inheritor of a dramatic exit, but a pass only lasts so long. Mr. Gaytten, this is DIOR. And we're not feeling your new look. Find a sole inspiration of creative depth and flesh it out. Entrance the 4 or 5 women who can afford this stuff with your craftsmanship and creativity. 

And leave the glitter filled finales to the Heatherettes of the world. 

All the best, 

It Can't All Be Dior

Battle of the Kate's Round 2

While you were busy eating veggie burgers and grilled asparagus all weekend, Miss Moss became a Mrs.

Moss married boyfriend of four years, Jamie Hince, the guitarist for The Kills. He wore a blue tux. 

And as planned she wore a custom gown by her long time friend, disgraced designer John Galliano

A gutsy move of loyalty but also style. Cuz for all his faults, Galliano can make some clothes. The dress is elegant and pretty on Kate. Very youthful and light. She's glowing. 

Moss is wearing Zelda Fitzgerald's engagement ring, whom the dress was also inspired by, according to Women's Wear Daily. A very odd first choice on the road to marital bliss, if you ask me. 

So now both Kates have married and both dresses have been seen. Which is your favorite? Middleton's long and lace or Moss' simple and political? 

DON'T: Reading Gwen Stefani on British ELLE

While the online is abuzz about Gwen Stefani's quotes about the genius of her wedding dress and its maker, John Galliano, inside this British ELLE, I couldn't help but have an "Oh No" moment with all those ill placed headlines.

Two big don'ts: "Botox" slapped in bold letters right at her Photoshopped visage and "Why men cheat" placed anywhere near her because Mister Stefani isn't exactly known for his fidelity. Poor thing.

Galliano Issues Apology

John Galliano just released a formal apology supposedly without his lawyers. There are hints of acknowledging both his ill statements and possible addictions (he is set to go into rehab). 

The statement in full:

"Since the events of last Thursday evening I have not been able to make any public comment on what took place based upon advice from my French lawyer. However, given the continuing delays at the French Prosecutor's Office I should make my position clear.

"I completely deny the claims made against me and have fully co-operated with the police investigation.

"A number of independent witnesses have given evidence and have told the police that I was subjected to verbal harassment and an unprovoked assault when an individual tried to hit me with a chair having taken violent exception to my look and my clothing. For these reasons I have commenced proceedings for defamation and the threats made against me.

"However, I fully accept that the accusations made against me have greatly shocked and upset people.

"I must take responsibility for the circumstances in which I found myself and for allowing myself to be seen to be behaving in the worst possible light.

"I only have myself to blame and I know that I must face up to my own failures and that I must work hard to gain people's understanding and compassion. To start this process I am seeking help and all I can hope for in time is to address the personal failure which led to these circumstances and try and earn people's forgiveness.

"I have fought my entire life against prejudice, intolerance and discrimination, having been subjected to it myself. In all my work my inspiration has been to unite people of every race, creed, religion and sexuality by celebrating their cultural and ethnic diversity through fashion. That remains my guiding light.

"Anti-semitism and racism have no part in our society. I unreservedly apologise for my behaviour in causing any offence."

Revolving Diors

Ok with John Galliano suspended and obviously not coming back, a successor is needed for Christian Dior. Someone who can handle both the Ready to Wear and the Haute Couture.


Here's some of my suggestions




1. Jean Paul Gauliter

A very obvious choice what with his enfant terrible reputation and his love for the dramatic. He could easily carry Dior forward and is available for another house with fashion history to take on since he left Hermes.





2. Olivier Theyskens

I know he's busy with Theory and all, but after a triumphant turn at Nina Ricci and an equally dramatic oust, critical darling, Theyskiens, would be up for the challenge, I'm sure.





3. Stefano Pilati

With rumors swirling once more that the Gucci group is on the verge on letting him  go from Yves Saint Laurent, he'd be open for a job and obviously familiar with the pressures of taking on such a revered French fashion house.




4. Giambattista Valli

This man knows how to dress a woman so she is the epitome of glamour and sophistication. He has a large celebrity following, which LVMH will need to pull Dior's reputation back (there will unfortunately  be a negative view connected until someone is able to wipe the slate clean).



With so many talents around, though, there isn't a shortage of designers to take over and perhaps we can look at this as a breath of fresh air and forward momentum for Dior.

Proof's in the Pudding. Or the Video.

Yesterday Mr G and I were talking about Galliano's alleged racist verbal assault. I contended that in this day and age oddly enough the best defense was lack of video.

Well British newspaper The Sun has a video. It's actually a previous Galliano racist rant at the same restaurant La Perle.

So now there's no drunken outburst defense. Clearly Galliano is anti-Semitic and a bigot. Career destroyed by hate.

And what of Dior now? Who will be the head designer of the storied house now?






http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/3436757/Film-of-John-Gallianos-racist-rant-in-bar.html

Qu'est Que C'est it Ain't So!

(Photo from TMZ)

John Galliano has been suspended as creative director of Dior after being arrested Thursday nite for an alleged scuffle and anti-Semitic altercation with a couple at popular Parisian cafe, La Perle. 

Stories vary to what happened during the alleged fight, but response was swift from Dior. According to Women's Wear Daily

Christian Dior president and CEO Sidney Toledano confirmed that Galliano has been suspended from the house until police conclude their investigation. Toledano emphasized that Dior has a zero-tolerance policy against racism and Antisemitism. 

Galliano persists an argument did occur, but that he made no racial slurs. Several witnesses are coming forth and suits are being made on both sides.  

Wow! I hope this is all found to be untrue. Galliano is a master designer and talent and has been a huge force in the Renaissance of the storied house of Dior. I'd hate to think of any connection to bigotry. 

LVMH, owners of the Dior label, have not commented on next week's planned Fall 2011 fashion shows, nor any plans for the future. 

Below a very interesting video from Telegraph UK where Fashion Director Hilary Alexander interviews Vogue Italia Editor in Chief Franca Sozzani and Fashionwiredaily.com's Godfrey Deeny about their thoughts about the allegations of a man they've worked with and known well over the years. 

Sometimes It Can Be: Dior Spring 2011 Couture

John Galliano cites René Gruau, the famous fashion illustrator who worked for Christian Dior during the New Look of the forties and fifties, as his muse for the Spring couture season and the runway was alive with slashes of the pen and layered marabou, silks and tulles to create the artist's luminous wash of watercolor

One creative force being inspired by another, two great voices of a storied house in different points of the legend. These clothes are stunning and fluid and share the grace of the flick of an artist's wrist and whim. 

This Week's Top Model Moment

(smile with your eyes, Cousin Oliver)

Oh Top Model, where do I begin? Remember how The Brady Bunch, realizing it was losing steam, brought in Cousin Oliver in a showy grab for resuscitation? Well, this season's spread in "Vogue Italia" Top Model prize is the trot it out diversion for a show way past its prime.

-sigh- Moving on, this week's was the best episode yet. The "emulate a famous fashion designer" photo shoot has been done so many VOGUEing times, but still, fun and light and it brought out the best in a lot of dishwater girls

(Mr G and I love Liz, but her Negative Nelly attitude sucks)

(Black Girls Love Betsey Johnson. Every black girl I know rocked a Betsey to Prom)

(Finally they gave Kayla some natural looking red hair. That Rihanna red color does not a model make!)

Honestly, this was the BEST theme so far as most of the season's shoots have felt like half-baked ideas at a movie studio pitch meeting ("so, she's a mermaid under a sheet of glass with water on top of it and we'll shoot her from above... no wait, she's a fabulous Lucha Libre... no wait...")

BUT if you're going to assign a girl Vera Wang, do not complain that the girl comes off "flat". Vera Wang, honey, ain't exactly known for her personality