Franca Sozzani Loves Fashion Bloggers, Franca Sozzani Loves Fashion Bloggers Not

Vogue Italia editor in chief Franca Sozzani agrees to be a judge on America's Next Top Model but then criticizes fashion bloggers for being irrelevant, vain and that

they don't offer an opinion but only talk about themselves [and] don't hold a real importance in the business

Ouch! What's with the nastiness? (Especially ironic when I'm reading this on your own blog on Vogue.it !)


I think I understand her point buried in here, though. Everyone and their mom has a blog now and the democratization of fashion has diluted its once rarefied air, but that is not an issue for fashion alone. Everyone  is an influencer now on music, electronics, fashion...everything. Companies across the gamut want to make money and will listen to the chorus of the public to see what demand is out there. That's just good business and the definition of democracy. Whether you agree with everyone's opinion or not and how serious or well researched their view may be, well that's life. Everyone has a voice and the internet has given them a megaphone so either listen up or put in ear plugs.

Particularly bizarre in this post is the about face that happens at the end:

I would like to know their opinion to understand a new point of view and not just rely on journalists who have been doing this for thirty years

 Not being biased at times helps to see what people who work in this industry miss 

That's the most backhanded compliment I've read today. The tone of this post certainly seems biased and many fashion bloggers do work in the fashion industry and the "non reliable opinions" come from copywriters, publicists, stylists, fashion editors and the retail workers who are actually responsible for convincing the public to part with their hard earned money when the hyped up article of clothing and the consumer are actually sharing the same space.


Later the post waffles on the thesis that was presented to us:

Lets wait a minute before acclaiming or hating [bloggers]. There are still a lot of people who don't know what blogger means, and none of us knows how it will evolve. It's still under observation. The only thing I can say with certitude it's that if it were a disease, we would call it a viral cold. An epidemic!

As far as I can recall, you opened this debate of bloggers' role, why be evasive now? Why straddle the fence on whether we're a "disease" or not?

Original link: http://www.vogue.it/en/magazine/editor-s-blog/2011/01/january-28th

City Life Dictionary: Cream of Corner

Cream of Corner:   (adj)   seemingly never ending Winter state when merely crossing the street becomes an Olympic game and all footwear must be made of the most hideous materials

My Socks Keep Riding

Umm... kinda in love with these socks from Brooklyn label, In God We Trust

As you can see in the model pic below, the length is just to the knee, not above. Sometimes knee highs are above and that's not cute

But these are cute and versatile

For girls, pair these with a  pleated off white silk skirt for an old money gin and tonic in the afternoon vibe

For boys cuffed shorts (or a kilt) and these socks are sexy in the Summer. Grrrr...

(Recycled cotton blend socks with brass horse bits, In God We Trust, $19.99 on sale per pair at Need Supply, http://needsupply.com)

This Might not be the Right Time to Learn a Full Windsor

(GAP boxer shorts with necktie knot directions, $12.50 at www.gap.com)

Good Advice: It's a Jolly Holiday at the Dry Cleaners

Thanks for the tip, penguins from "Mary Poppins"

Theyskens' Theory is Everyone Needs a Black Blazer

Olivier Theyskens' Theory line landed today and there's a lot of great pieces but this blazer really made my eye sparkle.

Yes, at $600, it be price, but this isn't just any old black blazer. Check out these details: stretch wool, narrow lapel, clean, no pocket, no button closure and curved hem (and the little widow's peak on the back of the neck drives me wild! Love it!)

Although I'm not sure I'd rock it the way they did on the runway. That no blouse look a little frowned on at work.

Well, usually.

("Jago" wool no button jacket, Theyskens' Theory, $595 at http://www.theory.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-theory_US-Site/default/Theyskens-Start)

HURTS so Good

Meanwhile in Britain (and the rest of Europe) a Manchesterian synthpop duo have quietly infiltrated the pop culture, taking over despite never appearing on X Factor! Although Dannii Minogue's big sis, Kylie, is a fan and has collaborated with them on a song, "Devotion" from their debut album, "Happiness". Hurts also did a live cover of Kylie's "Confide in Me" for British tabloid, The Sun's "Biz Sessions" (their exclusive online Unplugged-esque series)

"Happiness", has gone certified gold in the UK and Hurts' headlining tour has also sold out. They are now the opening act for huge in England Scissor Sisters' tour and have been contacted for collaboration with Leona Lewis and other pop artists

Hurts sound is a mix of Johnny Hates Jazz, Naked Eyes, and Cause & Effect ... ie: total synth pop dramatics.


Guess it'll fit in perfectly on the old I-pod!

Hoorah! H+M to be the Latest Misuse of Your Work Computer

Three Makes it a Trend: Menswear's Best Friend

(Trussardi 1911)

Kids, we're head first into Spring Couture and I'm still reeling from the mens Fall 2011 shows. They were a real bitch and in some cases, literally!

(Moncler Gamme Bleu)

and let's not forget Givenchy's much buzzed Rotweiller collection

(Givenchy)

Couture Showdown

Givenchy Spring 2011 couture  

VS.

Mumm-Ra "gets pissed and turns buff" couture 1985

Hmm... sorry Riccardo, I might vote for old Mums

Orange Marma-lads

Fellas, after a dramatic love affair during women's Spring 2011, fashion's still got an Orange crush

(Burberry Prorsum)

(Bottega Veneta)

(Ermenegildo Zegna)

(Mugler)

(Alexander McQueen)

(Costume National)

(Kenzo)

(Henrik Vibskov)

(Louis Vuitton)

(Jil Sander)

(Walter Van Beirendonck)

Bing Bang Wants You to Get Nailed

I love a good tie bar and I love subversion. Put them together and you've got me giddy.

Bing Bang has this groovy little nail number and I want, want, want! But with two tacks as the holders, it isn't really a tie bar is it? Mayhaps vertical as a tie tack is better, edgier and even sexier in a dying for my sins type way?

(1.5 Inch gunmetal plated nail tie bar, Bing Bang, $35 at http://shop.bingbangnyc.com)

Window Dressing on the Side: Louis Vuitton

This Louis Vuitton window on 57th Street reminds me of a Laffy Taffy joke

Q: What's worse than a centipede with aching feet? 

A:   A giraffe with a sore throat!

Sometimes It Can Be: Dior Spring 2011 Couture

John Galliano cites René Gruau, the famous fashion illustrator who worked for Christian Dior during the New Look of the forties and fifties, as his muse for the Spring couture season and the runway was alive with slashes of the pen and layered marabou, silks and tulles to create the artist's luminous wash of watercolor

One creative force being inspired by another, two great voices of a storied house in different points of the legend. These clothes are stunning and fluid and share the grace of the flick of an artist's wrist and whim. 

Stella McCartney's Spring Ad Tarts it Up

Waking up to large snowflakes lazily falling outside my window, it's funny to be writing about Spring and warm, sunny citrus, but here goes.

In this Stella McCartney ad, shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, model Malgosia Bela is part billboard for citrus growers of America, part rockin' the famous Tropicana tunic. 


Which brings me to my point of the post: something has happened here, some part of the equation of this ad has made that a-line sheath go from sad sack cover up, to a 70's louche, hot mom feel. The kinda mom that smells of cocoa butter and YSL Opium and flirts with your friends when you bring them back home to your pool after school. 


Is it the lighting or does Malgosia fill the dress out better than Sasha Pivovarova did on the runway? Or is it that Malgosia is 33 and it takes a mature, confident sexuality to override the cuteness of the oranges and limes?


Whatever the sex factor is here, it's working. That dress will sell out, mark my words.

Give it Up, Girl; You Are Not Carrie Bradshaw

According to The New York Post, a crazy Long Island business man has hired a "Sex and the City" set designer to recreate Carrie's closet for his wife for a mere $175,000.

Once a guest room, now only 400 pairs of shoes call this space a place to lay their weary soles. Well and drawers "full of sunglasses and bling".

Oy, please don't feed into your wife's delusions that she is a fictitious character with an unrealistically huge but telegenic New York City closet and the ability to get anything she wants just by snapping her finger. Other people have to interact with her and she sounds like a real cuckoo bird.

Doin' It: Junya Watanabe Men's Fall 2011 Fair Isle

Junya Watanabe's Men's Fall 2011 standouts are definitely these Fair Isle toppers. 

Double breasted with a knit shawl collar or singularly patterned with over-sized solid color wool pockets, every look felt warm, modern and handsomely streamlined

No easy accomplishment since Fair Isle has such a heavy handed "Ugly X-mas Sweater" vibe to it. 

And just like those sweaters, I have a feeling a similar looking blazer or boyfriend cardigan (or fingers crossed that toggle coat. Obsessed with that toggle coat!) can be found at my local Goodwill. 

Will keep you posted, but the hunt is officially on!