Comeback Week: Stefano Pilati Ermenegildo

Stefano Pilati made a huge comeback this week at his premier outing for Ermenegildo Zegna. Easily one of the most anticipated shows of milan men's fashion week (Pitti Uomo), Pilati did not disappoint with his typical stret and art scene flourish added to classic tailoring. This is what he masterfully accomplished at YSL before being unceremoniously dumped. Well Kerring's lost is the family Zegna's gain and this collaboration felt like that. A unification of signature label pieces filtered through the eye of a showman with tailor tendencies. 

Particularity of note were lightweight, neutral suits with layered long sleeve t-shirts rolled back at the cuffs

The suit was lent both an urban, laidback cool as well ad an indifference to a suit. I enjoy that aggressive approach Pilati always takes. His is never just a version of house tropes, but rather a rebuttal. How easy would it have been for him to just send out clean business suits in the typical Zegna mold. Easy, but boring. Rather he roughed them up with modern styling and laissez faire. "These details add personality, mine inevitably, and that of Zegna as the world knows it," Pilati told Women's Wear Daily the day of the show

The styling is indeed a reflection of Pilati's languid style: nothing's buttoned. Everything's tossed on with only your eye on the clock as you dart out the door. But it's your foresight to curate such a mix and match wardrobe in the first place and, well, your confidence that makes it work 

This irreverence is refreshing and feels like, in this age of running behind and distractions, the way to dress.



Plus, words aside, this is just a damn beautiful coat 

Welcome back, Stefano. The phoenix has risen once more (tip of my hat to any who get that reference) 

Every Gent Needs

I'ma start a new regular post on It Can't All Be Dior on pieces essential to a men's wardrobe since that might be one of the most commonly asked questions I receive. 


As a gent who quite often wears a tie, I can't rave enough about a navy with white pin dot number. It is an essential for every wardrobe as it pulls every look together. I was fortunate enough to inherit my grandfather's insanely versatile vintage Yves Saint Laurent, but I love this cotton option from Good Heavens on Etsy

Skinny, preppy and sophisticated. Like the Renata Boeck of ties. And the first of the list of things, Every Gent Needs

(Handmade navy and white pin dot cotton tie, $37 at Good Heavens, 

http://www.etsy.com/listing/128290906/nova-a-navy-cotton-spotted-necktie?)

Make sure to Get Your Kicks 


by reading my latest piece for 


VIRAL Fashion:   

Linky LINK: 
http://viralfashion.com/viralfashion/mens-fashion/2013/03/19/get-your-kicks/

Logo New Now Next Fashion Party

Doin' my do's at last nite's Logo New Now Next Fashion Party at The Box in vintage YSL heart pin, Zara shirt, vintage wool jacket and my cashmere scarf my friend Ann handmade me. 

Book Club: It's All About the Dress

(Photo: Kathy Yl Chan)

That shit storm of a Liz Taylor Lifetime movie with the once actress Lindsay Lohan touches down this Thanksgiving weekend, but if you really wanna know all about La Liz and Richard Burton, well "Furious Love" is really the go-to. But as Liz's longtime wardrobe go-to and wife of her personal make up artist, Ron Berkeley, Vicky Tiel had insider, entourage level scoop. And she dishes in her memoirs, "It's All About the Dress". But this isn't backstabbing tell-all, this is the kinda secret sharing you get from a bestie. 

However, that said, tales come out about other celebs like Faye Dunaway, Marlon Brando, Woody Allen, Martha Stewart, and more. 

And boy does she have something to say about designers like Yves Saint Laurent,Mary Quant, DVF and Louis Feraud, the former three she claims all stole from her! According to "Dress", Vicky invented the mini skirt, the wrap dress and designers posing nude in ads, amongst many other boasts. 

Yes, Ms. Tiel is one of those Janice Dickinson types trying to undercut others who claim they were the first. 

This is the perfect side dish this week for a full plate of trash TV and turkeys. 

Hedi Back!

According to The New York Times, Hedi Slimane is officially back as head designer of YSL (the announcement will go live tomorrow supposedly), this time not just menswear, but the whole kit and caboodle

Are we excited about this? Hell yeah! Slimane's last design gig, as creative director for Dior Homme, was one of the sexiest, sleekest tenures in recent history. If even a morsel of that energy goes into Saint Laurent, we're guaranteed and refreshing shot of sleezy, smoke filled room sexiness in our Le Smokings of the future. 

Can't wait. 

End of the Road: Stefano Pilati at YSL

Good bye cutie

 I loved your reign at one of the most difficult houses to find an heir and found your magnetism palpable 

Plus I still want that damn sweatshirt!

Opium Wars

Yeah, yeah, yeah the fashion blog-a-sphere was all abuzz over the just released Emily Blunt YSL Opium ads and I will admit this is a beautiful shot

And I really like Emily Blunt (even if she hasn't quite found a proper follow up to her cobra snark assistant role in "The Devil Wears Prada") but let's compare her "white woman at the day spa" ad with those of other famous Opium girls

1. Sophie Dahl in 2000

I grew up in the era saturated with Tom Ford sexuality. He just had this way of shaking off mature labels and dousing them in sensuality (hello Estee Lauder?!) His current fragrance ads have continued this streak even if they feel a little more focused on youthful mischievous sex than the sophisticated, dominant style that used to be his trump. 

2. Jerry Hall in 1977

Jerry is the iconic face of Opium and one of the many women of the 70's that made Yves Saint Laurent the man to wear to feel sexy and confident. Jerry, while fully clothed is writhing about those silks and velvets in pure ecstacy. Maybe it's the heady oriental she's wearing, maybe it's the thoughts of the lover she'll send home wearing it. 

3. Kate Moss in 2003

Kate has that way of transcending labels. She's just as comfortable schilling dime store makeup as she is reinventing time tested luxury perfumes. These stolen moments of an off duty peep show girl are pure sex, sweat and secrets. Alluring. 

4. MariaCarla Boscono in 2006

Even ice blond MariaCarla radiates. The way her body looks so plush, so soft and smooth conveys the fragrance's hold on the wearer: you are now enveloped in it, unable to escape even if you wanted. Her playful tease of the rope let's you know she's not really the type to turn down such an offer.






5. Karen Elson in 2010

Karen can't resist. She's hooked on Opium and is now willingly giving herself over to her intoxicating new master.





6. Linda Evangelista in 1998

In full man drag, Linda is still slick and sexy. The aggressive nature of such a door opening scent is played up here. Nothing is delicate: the walls fiery red, the tufted couch is royal purple and Linda is androgynous. There's fantasy represented of both the Orient and the S+M power play of an addiction in this ad.


All in all another reminder that actresses, even ones we like, should leave the modelling work to models.

Thanks for the Ad: YSL Flashback

That's one glamorous collect call