Comeback Week: Stefano Pilati Ermenegildo

Stefano Pilati made a huge comeback this week at his premier outing for Ermenegildo Zegna. Easily one of the most anticipated shows of milan men's fashion week (Pitti Uomo), Pilati did not disappoint with his typical stret and art scene flourish added to classic tailoring. This is what he masterfully accomplished at YSL before being unceremoniously dumped. Well Kerring's lost is the family Zegna's gain and this collaboration felt like that. A unification of signature label pieces filtered through the eye of a showman with tailor tendencies. 

Particularity of note were lightweight, neutral suits with layered long sleeve t-shirts rolled back at the cuffs

The suit was lent both an urban, laidback cool as well ad an indifference to a suit. I enjoy that aggressive approach Pilati always takes. His is never just a version of house tropes, but rather a rebuttal. How easy would it have been for him to just send out clean business suits in the typical Zegna mold. Easy, but boring. Rather he roughed them up with modern styling and laissez faire. "These details add personality, mine inevitably, and that of Zegna as the world knows it," Pilati told Women's Wear Daily the day of the show

The styling is indeed a reflection of Pilati's languid style: nothing's buttoned. Everything's tossed on with only your eye on the clock as you dart out the door. But it's your foresight to curate such a mix and match wardrobe in the first place and, well, your confidence that makes it work 

This irreverence is refreshing and feels like, in this age of running behind and distractions, the way to dress.



Plus, words aside, this is just a damn beautiful coat 

Welcome back, Stefano. The phoenix has risen once more (tip of my hat to any who get that reference)